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I was going through some old cd/dvd (writable and pressed) noticed, pretty much all of them have mold or mold like (small thread like stuff on surface)
on both sides of the disk. What I normally do is, every 6 months or so, to open, (scotch taped cardboard box) and open individual cd/dvd plastic cases and
wipe both sides of the disk with a soft cloth. This can be a time consuming (and I am becoming lazy) so I am looking for semi permanent solution where
I only need to inspect/wipe (if needbe) them once every 2-3 years. Most of the cd-r/dvd-r are backups so I rarely use them (once a year or less)
and the pressed cd/dvd I hardly listan/watch them.
From what I read (by googling) on prevention of mold:
-Keep items well ventilated [not practical, all my cd/dvd in their plastic cases and then put in cardboard box and scotch taped]
-Vacuum clean regularly (with a hepa filter) [I don't think this is applicable since they are in taped cardboard boxes]
-Keep items in area where there is plenty on sunlight. [not advisable for cd/dvd]
-Reduce humidity level [this seem like the only practical solution for me]
I am thinking of putting cd/dvd in a big air tight plastic container along with some silica gel packets.
Anyone in LQ come across or use other mold prevention methods safe/practical for cd/dvd ?
If mold catches on them it means that there is something it can feed on in the disks - perhaps some organic coating layer that is part of the disk
I'd suggest to make copies of disks that show signs of damage. If the disks are from different manufacturers and all / most the disks with the mold are of the same type, copy everything from the disks from this manufacturer to new disks
'Threads' can also be hairline cracks from deteriorating plastic or from thermal stress. Do you store the disks in place where temperature repeatedly goes up and down ?
You certainly have a problem now, and to maintain the data in the current way you'll have to copy disks every some time. Try to change this
Air - storing the disks in a CD-R package (the stick thing on which new CD-Rs come) with the cover off allows some minimal convection of air, it may well be enough
Vacuum - no need. If you store it correctly it won;t cath any dust. If you store the disks in a CD-R package, put bad / unimportant / blank disks as the top and bottom ones to protect the rest
Light - the UV in sun light will damage the plastic of the disks. but some minimal light (like in a room, in s corner where it gets little ambient light from the room) is better than darkness. Dont keep very close to fluorescent lights - they emit UV too
Dont expect disks to last forever. Standard (not specialized long-life) disks will sometimes be unusable in few years due to their nature
A mild solution of borax, which you can find in the laundry section of a grocery store, probably under the brand-name "Twenty Mule Team," is a definitive way to eliminate and to prevent mold and fungus. Apply it to the surface and let it dry. Apply it also, using a light sprayer, to the insides of the sleeves and, once again, let it dry completely.
It's quite amazing to see what "lil' ol borax" actually does to the molecular structure of these organisms. One writer said, "it looks like a nuclear explosion hit it." (Other things that you might think to try, like bleach, don't even come close.)
I've got a sometimes-damp basement, and a simple pesticide sprayer (used for nothing else but borax, of course!) and a couple gallons of borax solution, will promptly eliminate any mold down there and prevent its recurrence.
Well borax probably won't be useful on such a disc though .
Quote:
Protein-Coated Disc (PCD) is a theoretical optical disc technology currently being developed by Professor Venkatesan Renugopalakrishnan, formerly of Harvard Medical School and Florida International University. PCD would greatly increase storage over Holographic Versatile Disc optical disc systems. It involves coating a normal DVD with a special light-sensitive protein made from a genetically altered microbe, which would in principle allow storage of up to 50 Terabytes on one disc. Working with the Japanese NEC Corporation, Renugopalakrishnan's team created a prototype device and estimated in July, 2006 that a USB disk would be commercialised in 12 months and a DVD in 18 to 24 months.[1] However, no further information has been forthcoming since that time.
The technology uses the photosynthetic pigment bacteriorhodopsin created from bacteria.
-edit
Borax seems a bit extreme to me. Isopropyl alcohol should be used instead.
If mold catches on them it means that there is something it can feed on in the disks - perhaps some organic coating layer that is part of the disk
The disk to have slight finger prints on them, having said that I have seen mold on brand new, just unwrapped cd/dvds that have been in storage for few years......... (all major brand name disks)
Quote:
'Threads' can also be hairline cracks from deteriorating plastic or from thermal stress.
Thankfully this is not the case, when I wipe the cds the threads go away.
Quote:
Dont expect disks to last forever. Standard (not specialized long-life) disks will sometimes be unusable in few years due to their nature
I agree on this 100% all the manufactures over state the life span of their disk ranging from 50-100 years, in reality you'll be lucky if they were to last 5-10 years.....
@ sundialsvcs
I am uncomfortable using borax on my cd/dvd simply because, not sure what will any borax residue will do to cds on the long run........ nevertheless thanks for borax tip, I can use it for other situations involving mold/fungus.
@Jeebizz
Quote:
Well borax probably won't be useful on such a disc though
to keep it from coming back you need an air tight box of some kind
with some extra room for a descant like silica-gel
that you can get from a craft store (used for drying flowers)
Considering that I have a lot of burnt discs, I just store mine in the spindles the blanks came in. It is more practical anyways, rather than jewel cases.
Since I don't use the disks much, I decided to wipe any effected cd/dvds with rubbing alcohol and keep them in a airtight
(close to airtight as possible) box with some packets of silica-gel (like “rob.rice” said), and as an when silica-gel
indicator color changes replace the packets.
Rubbing alcohol i.e the stuff you by in the drug store typically is 70% isopropyl and contains other stuff like perfumes. It would be best to use pure isopropyl because the drug store version may leave a residue on the surface.
Rubbing alcohol i.e the stuff you by in the drug store typically is 70% isopropyl and contains other stuff like perfumes. It would be best to use pure isopropyl because the drug store version may leave a residue on the surface.
Borax is a suitable killer if it is mold, and of course, if the mold cannot simply be removed from the surface by other means. In the case of a CD-ROM, obviously, just washing the thing with soap and water would do it. The most important consideration is that the surface of a recordable is very easily scratched, and thusly, ruined.
If you've got mold growing on the rafters in your basement, on the other hand, spray on some borax ... wear a respirator mask, and do not disturb the mold by any mechanical means whatsoever ... and check back in a couple of days to watch the carnage. The mold will be gone, and it won't grow back anytime soon.
Last edited by sundialsvcs; 06-15-2011 at 08:36 AM.
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