If you are sure that it is a hardware issue, the manufacturer won't help, it is out of warranty and you have some skill, then you could open it. I would take a camera to record each step, because putting it back together is gonna be hard. You may also want to find a tear-down video / howto before you start.
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Underclocking the CPU, gah. By aprox 50% as well, thats _really_ going to hurt performance. It might help overheating when compiling, but that is ignoring the real problem...and its quite likely the laptop will still overheat. Quote:
Also, NVS 135 is G84M, and basicly the same chip as used in the 8400M G/GS/GT. |
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OP go from general to specific. Either narrow down the cause (best) or eliminate all possible causes (weak, but workable)
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It can also be worthwhile just to remove the battery if you expect a long term on AC power, or as OP mentioned, during a particularly intense task on AC. Quote:
In addition to making certain there is good heat transfer between the CPU and it's heatsink (and also the GPU and it's, if it has one) one should look to see if there is any obvious spot to improve airflow. Just don't drill any holes, especially in metal, without the means to insure complete and utter clean up afterwards. A Nibbler on plastic works wonders and a thin sheet of packing foam can act as a filter and cosmetic cover if you decide to add what amounts to a new air intake. If you have a good reason not to modify your hardware, even fear, then just don't, but for most people with any decent tools and skills to use them, the improvement can be absolutely dramatic. I have seen 20 C reductions at idle, and far greater resistance to change under load. Just more stable. Quote:
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check this out http://www.linuxquestions.org/questi...8/#post4830372
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Its also possible that there will not be enough pressure on the heatsink, and in those cases adding a shim can help. Adding a shim in most (all?) other cases just adds more layers and more thermal paste, which reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. Quote:
Its fixable in most Intel CPU/AMD GPU or AMD CPU/AMD GPU situations with vgaswitcharoo or by using the fglrx closed driver. (Intel CPU/nVidia GPU and AMD CPU/nVidia GPU setups are now almost always 'optimus' and work better with bumblebee). |
Just some comments for clarity
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The occurrence of an actual and substantial air gap on many laptops is due to factory assembly methods. Parts that fit together precisely are generally anathema to assembly line speed, so manufacturers often resort to extremely thick wafers of "thermal pads". This is at best, "fooling oneself" since even the best thermal paste does not have a coefficient even approaching metal to metal contact. It's just better than air. Thermal paste should be applied in as thin a layer as possible. Ideally much of the mating surfaces should NOT be separated by paste so that it only fills the low spots preventing air pockets. It is not uncommon to see thermal wafers used that are 1/16th inches thick (0.0625) and I have witnessed some closer to 1/8th inch (0.125). It is only a very slight improvement to replace this entire thickness with the same thickness of even high quality thermal paste, the primary benefit being simply eliminating the adhesive layers on both sides. Not the best improvement, but some. Consider this: A person could coat his finger tip with a thick layer of thermal paste and apply a match to it with very little danger of a burn. DO NOT try that with a copper shim with a thin layer on both sides. Does that make it more real for you?. A less dramatic test that is safer to try is this. Put a blob of thermal paste, or better one of those ridiculous wafers, on a nonflammable surface and hold a match or a lighter to it for say, 5 full seconds. The blob, if the mass approaches anywhere near the amount actually used on many laptop heatsinks, will not even be uncomfortably warm in 5 seconds. A wafer can get uncomfortable but not deliver a burn even though the adhesive will ignite and burn for a few seconds too, and in direct intimate contact with the paste. Again, DO NOT try this with a shim of similar mass with a thin layer of paste. FTR, I have done both of these tests, but only after I employed a VOM with a thermal transducer probe to measure actual temps. (I may be crazy but I'm not an idiot :P ) Heat in electronics is the enemy and I take it very seriously, and defeat it with extreme prejudice and knowledge gained from many years of work in the field. You do what you want, but I will never own for long any electronics (other than Vacuum Tube) that will idle at 65 C. |
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BTW, its normally called 'lapping', not 'polishing'. Quote:
But that is bad design and bad manufacturing. I seen lots of people suggest shims over the years, and sometimes I've seen people even say 'adding a shim will help in all situations becasue copper conducts heat better than aluminium'. Thats a bit silly, as you can get pure copper and copper bottomed heatsinks. But even with an aluminium heatsink, its still very uncommon to see temps go down, they mostly go up. If there is a normal ('good' I spose) heatsink/CPU interface, adding a shim will just make things worse. The more thickness and layers you have, the harder it is for the heat to get out. That is why you can remove the intergrated heatspeader found in pretty much all current CPUs and improve temps. No, I am not suggesting that is a good idea for any normal user) Quote:
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I ran many systems with 40C+ room temps during summer for years. At 40C+, idle temps tend to the mid to high 50s at minimum. I've had idle temps go as high as 60C+ at times. No, its not a good idea. Quote:
I'd be trying to reinstall windows asw a temp test and/or install vgaswitcharoo, a new kernel etc. with linux before modding hardware. |
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapping You can 'polish' a sphere. You cant lap one. ;) *edit- actually, technically, you can 'lap' a sphere, but spherical lapping is not the same as plate lapping. Quote:
20C+ idle deltas are uncommon now thanks to CPU frequency scaling and better power management. But it used to be fairly common. Quote:
Thats a 13 C delta with Hyper-Threading, 21 C without. Given a 40C room thats a 53C/61C idle temp.... and that is with an aftermarket heatsink, which IIRC was better than the stock P4 heatsink... Quote:
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'Science' says that more layers of thermal grease = worse performance. Quote:
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