Problem with trac: nav bar is missing after removing package "pyrex"
 

This is a bit of a repost, but the last one wasn't answered & I now have more info, so....

I have trac running on a server running Debian 5.0 (lenny). It was running fine until I did a package upgrade (typical maintenance). After the upgrade (which upgraded numerous packages, including glibc, fwiw), trac stopped working with an internal server error. In the apache logs, I see that the error is related to a pyrex module.

After much failed trouble shooting, I installed trac on a fresh lenny install on another machine, using the exact same configs as the original server (and I mean the identical files served to the new machine from the original machine via nfs) and everything works. The new machine does not have pyrex installed.

I uninstalled pyrex from the original machine. Now I no longer get the internal server error, my error logs are empty, but I no longer get the nav bar (the one with "Wiki", "Timeline", "Browse Source", etc) or anything above it (log out, search, banner, etc.).

I'm completely baffled. I've tried dpkg-reconfigure on trac & trac-git. I just purged (which is remove program + config files for you non-Debian types) trac & trac-git, then reinstalled.... same result - missing nav & everything above. If I view the source, that stuff is, in fact, missing... so it's not my browser mis-rendering or any sort of missing css.

Any ideas?