Well, it's kind of hard to think of specific programs that I couldn't live without, because there are often several good solutions when you're running linux.
A couple I can think of that are extremely useful to me are:
X, rpm, yum, make, xmms, mplayer, xine, firefox, k3b, and vim.
I use XFCE4 as a desktop, but I think there are atleast five window manager/desktop suites that I have tried and found to be satisfactory.
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