My cups error_log is empty until there is an actual error or debug message, so I do not think the empty error log means it isn't running. Try this, to see if cupsd is listening:
Code:
$ netstat -an | egrep '/cups|:631'
Response should be 1, 2, or 3 lines showing cupsd is listening on TCP port 631, tcp6 port 631 (if supported), and a Unix socket, something like /var/run/cups/cups.sock possibly.
If cupsd is running (as you found), and is listening on ports, the next step is to figure out why you can't connect to it. (If it isn't listening, you need to debug that first.)