The various themes are kept in /usr/share/themes. Each theme should have a series of css files (you should look in the theme's gtk-3.0 folder as most Ubuntu 18.04 applications should use Gtk3) through which you can change the theme attributes.
In order to avoid having to edit these css files as root (and have them revert any time the theme is updated), create a folder in your home directory using e.g.
Code:
mkdir -p ~/.themes/theme_name/gtk-3.0
(replacing
theme_name with the name of the theme folder in /usr/share/themes).
Then create the css file in that directory that you want to change and populate it with:
Code:
@import url("/usr/share/themes/theme_name/gtk-3.0/css_filename.css");
(changing
theme_name and
css_filename.css accordingly).
Then you can add in any CSS rules after that (it's best to flag them as
!important to ensure they are given priority).
You will probably have to reload a theme to put into effect any changes.