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Old 12-24-2011, 03:21 PM   #1
EDDY1
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sata hdd contacts burned need to recover data


I have a 1Tb hitachi hdd which upon startup shorted the terminals so now data is unaccessible, it has a 3yr. warrantee but that doesn't help me recover the data which is on it.
I changed the circuit board from an identical hdd which I bought at the same time but, after connecting to machine the drive is not recognized.
Although the drives are identicle the numbers on prited circuit board are off by 1 digit & the manufacturer doesn't sell it.
What can I do as sending to data recovery can prove expensive.
 
Old 12-25-2011, 09:07 AM   #2
michaelk
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Unfortunately there isn't much you can do AFAIK. I'm curious on how the terminals were shorted.
 
Old 12-25-2011, 10:21 AM   #3
H_TeXMeX_H
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If the old board was fried and the new board doesn't work and you can't get one that works, then the only option is a professional data recovery service.
 
Old 12-25-2011, 10:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Unfortunately there isn't much you can do AFAIK. I'm curious on how the terminals were shorted.
I'd like to know that too, although, I did read this:
Quote:
Another protection device called Transient Voltage Suppression diode or TVS diode. It protects PCB from power surges from external power supply. When TVS diode detects power surge it fries itself and creates short circuit between power connector and ground. There are two TVS diodes on this PCB for 5V and 12V protection.
from
http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html
Quote:
If the old board was fried and the new board doesn't work and you can't get one that works, then the only option is a professional data recovery service.
I would like to recover the data but as far as data recovery services they were way too expensive, the drive was used to store images of the different computers that I worked on & my debian wheezy os, if I can't find a pcb with matching numbers then I may have to just take the loss & just do the warrantee exchange.
 
Old 12-27-2011, 09:04 AM   #5
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Member response

Hi,

If indeed the diodes are shorted then you could just open the diode by clipping each. That will open the diode and then try the old board. No loss for trying. If it works then get the data ASAP. Those clamps are power protection for the PCB. You may have some PSU issues or just a one time transient/surge.

EDIT: You did not apply/insert or remove cable while power is on did you?

Last edited by onebuck; 12-27-2011 at 09:06 AM. Reason: note
 
Old 12-27-2011, 09:19 AM   #6
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There is one other possible solution if the board change doesnt work- a platter change. To do a platter change, you will have to strip both drives. Then move the platters from the 'to be recovered' drive into the new drive.

But that is messy, complex, risky and fiddly, and it may not work anyway.
 
Old 12-27-2011, 09:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cascade9 View Post
There is one other possible solution if the board change doesnt work- a platter change. To do a platter change, you will have to strip both drives. Then move the platters from the 'to be recovered' drive into the new drive.

But that is messy, complex, risky and fiddly, and it may not work anyway.
This would, of course, have to be done in a clean room ... I assume you have access to one right ?
 
Old 12-27-2011, 10:16 AM   #8
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Hi,

Actually a positive pressure Plexiglas enclosure can be built. We used a homemade unit in the LAB. You need to have good filtered air and a seal w/clamp to the surface to prevent walk or chatter. Air flow rate should just be enough to get a positive pressure within the enclosure. We did use two stage HEPA with small speed controlled cage blower along with a plastic & rubber valve to exhaust or control the pressure. And maintain isolation. Our unit restricted staging time to 15-30 minutes. Glove set was purchased & rings were manufactured in the shop. We used the Plexiglas that was on-hand, think tit was 3/8. You can use Methylene Chloride Plexi Solvent to weld/bond the Plexiglass contact points. Pins or screws to have a good mechanical connection mating the cut sides, end and top sheet. Once assembled you would then use the Methylene Chloride along with a good applicator to seal while applying and maintain slight pressure to the contact points. I no longer have the plans available, somewhere at the LAB. I'm sure that you can Google/Duck the topic.

To purchase the cheapest at the time(early 90s') was well over a thousand. Homemade cost for a 2x2.5x1 ft was less than $300. Of course we had a machine shop along with other facilities to build. At the time as it is now the repair is greater than the cost of a new drive. That's why you do 'BACKUPs'.

You might find a good local repair shop with a small table top pressure chamber. You are not mass producing but making a repair so no clean room is necessary.
 
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by onebuck View Post
Hi,
You did not apply/insert or remove cable while power is on did you?
No I plugged it in & powered the machine & it started sizzling there were 2
drives in at the time but only the 1 fried, The part that fried were the power connector from the psu & the drive.
 
Old 12-27-2011, 12:59 PM   #10
onebuck
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Hi,

Then I would at least try clipping the diodes. Those diodes are for input power protection. What about the PSU? Any other problems that are power related?

If the power connector pads are damaged then connect power using small awg wire. You can solder to the pad inside lead. Make sure to maintain proper polarity for the power connections. Small wattage pencel or iron would be the right tool with a clean tip. You should tin the lead and the wire then solder.
 
Old 12-27-2011, 03:45 PM   #11
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And the plexiglass has to be ESD safe.
 
Old 12-27-2011, 04:02 PM   #12
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Hi,

Not if your mat/table top is! When using the cleanbox we never experienced a ESD problem.
 
Old 12-27-2011, 08:02 PM   #13
EDDY1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebuck View Post
Hi,

Then I would at least try clipping the diodes. Those diodes are for input power protection. What about the PSU? Any other problems that are power related?

If the power connector pads are damaged then connect power using small awg wire. You can solder to the pad inside lead. Make sure to maintain proper polarity for the power connections. Small wattage pencel or iron would be the right tool with a clean tip. You should tin the lead and the wire then solder.
It' has only affected 1 connector so I marked, seperated & put wire nuts on the end, so that there's no chance of shorting, I'll end up splicing a connnector to it .
 
  


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