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Old 06-17-2004, 07:15 PM   #31
wslyhbb
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Newegg is also excellent at returns, you can a RMA automatically from their website, and you can send things back up to two years I think. I have had nothing but the best service from them.
 
Old 06-17-2004, 10:25 PM   #32
Fear58
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I'm on the verge of pressing the checkout items button with these pieces:

Western Digital Special Edition 80GB 7200RPM IDE Hard Drive, Model WD800JB, OEM Drive Only


Apacer 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-2100 - OEM *Dalek suggested*

ABIT "NF7" nForce2 Chipset Motherboard for AMD Socket A CPU -RETAIL *Dalek suggested*

AMD Athlon XP 2500+ "Barton", 333 FSB, 512K Cache Processor - OEM *dalek suggested*

BELKIN Anti-Static Wrist Strap, Model "F8E093" *just incase *

XFX nVIDIA GeForce FX5600XT Video Card, 128MB DDR, DVI/TV-Out, 8X AGP, Model "PVT31LRA" -RETAIL *yay*

Can i still get sound from the motherboard without a sound card? oh yea, i need that fan dalek pointed out. Anyway, everything look goot to go? Itll be about $410.
 
Old 06-17-2004, 10:32 PM   #33
Fear58
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I have NO idea how to install the thermaltake fan. Does it come with instructions or could anyone help or point out a good site to show me how?
 
Old 06-17-2004, 10:41 PM   #34
dalek
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The fan comes with a poster if I recall correctly. There are basically three ways to set the fan up. Full speed ahead, temp control or a manual control like a volume knob. It is real easy though. For full speed, you put a jumper on the connector. For temp control you hook up a little temp sensor, be very carefull with that sensor. For manual control, you just hook up a little potentiometer, like a volume know. There were two in mine, one mounts in a unused PCI slot, the other can go whereever you want.

That thing is easy. The pictures in there say it all.

Quote:
Apacer 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-2100 - OEM *Dalek suggested*
I did? I thought I put a link to Mushkin. Good brand, and cheap(er). Not sure about Apacer but it should be OK. I'm sure newegg will stand behind it anyway.

Let us know when you get it together.

Later

 
Old 06-17-2004, 10:53 PM   #35
dalek
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fear58
Apacer 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-2100 - OEM *Dalek suggested*
That is a PC-2700 not PC-2100 right. It will work but slower.

If it is PC-2100, contact newegg and see if they can change it, if you can afford it. Shouldn't be a lot but I don't know your budget.

Later

 
Old 06-17-2004, 10:58 PM   #36
Fear58
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I changed the memory to a
Mushkin 184 Pin 512MB DDR PC-3200 - Retail
same price as the one I was about to buy, $78

So, ok I think i have everything now, except! *franicks* IDE cables!! ahhh! Do i need to buy these also, or will the hardware pieces come with them?
 
Old 06-17-2004, 11:12 PM   #37
dalek
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Mine had flat cables in the mobo box. It should have them in yours too. They are flat though, not the round ones. I got round ones from a local dealer later.

Here is a link, hope it works.

http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage....127-144-07.JPG

I went and looked, they are in the pic at least.

Later

 
Old 06-17-2004, 11:27 PM   #38
J.W.
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PC 3200 RAM is 400Mz, which does not match your CPU's 333Mz FSB. Just like dalek said, you should go with PC 2700 RAM, not 3200 or 2100. It's your money, but as you probably know, a computer system will only run as fast as its slowest component. Given that your CPU has a 333 FSB, buying faster memory isn't going to hurt, but your gating factor will be that 333 FSB. Since your mobo can handle either 333 or 400, my advice to you would be to either:

1. Keep the Athlon 2500+ Barton CPU and buy PC 2700 RAM
--or--
2. Keep the PC 3200 RAM and upgrade to a CPU with a 400 FSB, such as the Athlon 3200+ Barton

As I've said previously, I recommend matching your mobo to your CPU to your RAM. Having one component run faster than the others isn't going to hurt, but the idea is that there's no point to it -- your system will only run as fast as the slowest component. Therefore, it isn't worth buying faster RAM if the rest of your system is running slower. If the prices are comparable then stick with the faster equipment but if you're paying extra for the "faster" stuff, you may not be getting good value for your dollars.

On a different note, if you can post some pix as you build your rig, it would be very cool to see what takes shape. Lastly, No, you shouldn't need to buy IDE cables. They ought to come with the mobo. Newegg usually gives you a very complete picture of what you're getting so you might want to double check. -- J.W.
 
Old 06-17-2004, 11:47 PM   #39
dalek
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It !MAY! overclock better but that is a really big crap shoot. I would get the 2700 and hope for the best. If there is one weak spot, be it mobo, CPU or memory, it will reach a limit somewhere. I have mine running at 3200 speed now and you are getting a better memory in my opinion so you should do as well if not better. Hmmmm, just remembered, the new CPUs are clock locked. Get the 2700 for sure now. CPU will limit you anyway.

I'm impatient so, Have you got it together yet?

I'm about to call it for a while. I'm going to mod my monitor a bit. Plan to put bigger heat sinks on some stuff.

Later

 
Old 06-18-2004, 12:04 AM   #40
Fear58
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I just noticed something. Retail CPU = Heatsink and fan included, while OEM = processor only. If i get the thermal fan, will i need the heatsink and fan (retail) or should i stick with the OEM and get just the processor and buy the thermal fan? Also, what is a heatsink. SORRY LAST QUESTION, I SWEAR. Then, I'll buy everything tommorow (payday!)
 
Old 06-18-2004, 01:10 AM   #41
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Actually, about the RAM, I've seen some benchmarks that compared the performance of PC2700 to PC3200 on NForce2 mobos with 333FSB CPUs, and, practically accross the boards (both synthetic and real-world benches) the PC2700 beat out the PC3200 by quite a lot, as non-sensical that it sounds. Actually, as far as I understand it, since all NForce2 mobos support asynchronus CPU FSB/RAM FSB/System FSB, it'll still run the PC3200 at 400mhz, whereas the CPU will still have a FSB of 333, which will make everything take a LOT longer to sync back up. my advice: go for the same speed ram as your CPU FSB, no matter what they are going to be, on an NForce-based mobo. Also, about the fan -- generally the fan that comes with the retail CPU will do it's job, b/c it's sold and garunteed by the manufacturer, but it won't do any more that that (as in, it'll only keep the proc a few degrees below its danger/overheat zone) Thus, it wouldn't fare very well with overclocking, since the faster the go, the hotter your CPU gets. Thermaltake is a very good brand when it comes to cooling, and generally any high-quality fan that you buy separate of the CPU will cool much better than the retail-box fan will.
 
Old 06-18-2004, 01:15 AM   #42
dalek
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CPU OEM, is the CPU and nothing else, period. It is bare naked. If you plan to buy the Volcano I linked to, you only need the OEM, CPU. The Volcano is the heatsink with a fan attached. The heatsink is a big piece, copper in this case, of metal that takes the heat away from the CPU. If you turn on the puter without the heatsink, it likely won't even make it to the first beep. That thing will heat up fast and runs at full throttle until it hits the OS. It will burn.

If you get the retail CPU, it includes a heatsink and fan. It ain't much but it will work. I would NOT overclock with the retail heatsink. It is not really good enough.

Basically, if you buy the OEM CPU, you need the Volcano too. If you buy a retail CPU then you don't have to get the Volcano heatsink. Buying the retail CPU and the volcano is sort of wasting money. You will have parts left over.

That make sense?

I took my monitor apart. It has nice big heatsinks in it already. I'm glad cause it would be a tight fit to put anything else in there cooling wise. I did blow out the dust though. < cough, cough; sneeze>

Later



Questions are good. Ignorance will mess up something. Seeing smoke and saying, "I didn't know that" will not fix it.
 
Old 06-18-2004, 01:17 AM   #43
dalek
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Now you know why I put that statement in the bottom of my sig. Somebody replied while I was poking it in. <sighs>

Later

 
Old 06-18-2004, 01:50 AM   #44
J.W.
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rcrules' comment about 2700 RAM being faster than 3200 RAM on a mobo with a 333 FSB makes total sense, in spite of the fact that the 3200 RAM is "faster". The reason for this is due to the fact that the memory is feeding data back to the CPU faster than it can accept it, which creates wait states. If the components are matched, everything operates in tandem, and you minimize the chances of wait states developing. To draw an analogy, it's sort of like driving on the freeway at a constant 70 mph, vs driving at 100 mph then slamming on the brakes, then flooring it back up to 100 mph again, etc, etc.

As others have stated, you should buy the Retail version of the CPU, which should come with the heatsink/fan and thermal glue. The bare bones version will be ONLY the CPU, with no cooling apparatus. From what I can see, the price differential between the Retail and OEM versions is only a couple of bucks, and it's cheap insurance to get the extra stuff no matter what.

As for definitions, a heatsink is essentially anything that will dissipate the heat that is generated by the CPU. As you no doubt know, heat is the enemy of electronic components, and therefore, for sensitive and/or expensive equipment, it's worth keeping them at reasonable temperatures. Most common heatsinks are simply a chunk of metal with a fan on top of them which is placed directly on top of the CPU. The heat generated by the CPU is transferred to the metal, which is cooled by the fan, and consequently, the CPU stays cool. There are also passive heatsinks, such as those found in Shuttle boxes (which rock BTW) that dispense with the fan, but which rely more on increased surface area to perform the same heat dissipation as a fan. (Side note, the scientific principle here is similar to why ice cubes with holes in the center can cool things down faster than solid ice cubes -- it's because more "cold" surface area is exposed.)

I've got an Athlon 2500+ Barton running in a Shuttle box with passive heat dissipation, and the temp is a steady 107-109 Farenheit (approx 42-43 Celsius) which is well within the operating specs of the chip. The Shuttle box does not need a fan, but I purchased the Retail version anyway, just in case I decide to move the AMD chip to another rig and do need the fan.

Hope some of this helps. -- J.W.
 
Old 06-18-2004, 08:08 AM   #45
Fear58
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I'm thinking about buying a little faster retail AMD (Barton 2600+) because I guess you can't overclock AMD's anymore, according to dalek. I wasn't really ready to overclock anyway :S. but if I ever wanted to could i take the stock heatsink fan off and buy a thermaltake? Also, I can't find any 2700 on newegg in 512 blocks... if anyone could post a link that would be helpful... hold on let me keep looking.
 
  


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