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Old 10-18-2010, 09:11 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Blinker_Fluid View Post
And here I was upset because the car locks my doors and rings the bell until I get my seatbelt on. For some reason this future car reminded me of the OSHA cowboy cartoon...
and that seat belt alarm is way up behind the dash making it a bitch to disconnect
some times those need to be replaced with a resistor so the car will start
Old 10-18-2010, 09:29 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by enine View Post
There are two maximums for tires, one is a maximum to seat the beads and the other is a maximum operating pressure. Now you only want to run this if your running the maximum weight, if you inflate to the max (operating) pressure and drive like that the center of your tread will wear faster so you'll need to replace the tires more often so what you save in gas you'll spend in tires. you want to search on how to do the contact patch test and inflate as high as you can will still getting a perfect contact patch any less and your mileage drops as well as wear increases on the sides ,more and mileage will increase but center wear will also.
going by the max pressure on the tier 41PSI I have never had an overinflated ware pattern at

I have ran as much as 50PSI I did get a slight overinflated ware pattern

going by the inflation pressure on the door tag 28PSI is just plan dangerous with today's tiers the side walls flex so badly the tread lifts off the road

Last edited by rob.rice; 10-18-2010 at 09:30 PM.
Old 10-19-2010, 07:51 AM   #33
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The tag on the door tag is only accurate for the original or exact matching spec tires, the manufaturer took the weight of the car with a dummy load and figured out the correct spec for the tires, if you've ever changed tires then its not accurate. For example I went from 2 ply P rated to 6 ply D rated tires on my truck and had to change from 35psi for the stock as listed on the door tag to 45-50psi to get a proper contact pattern. Put them up to 55-60 when the camper is on and max is 80 for them.


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