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Just annotations of little "how to's", so I know I can find how to do something I've already done when I need to do it again, in case I don't remember anymore, which is not unlikely. Hopefully they can be useful to others, but I can't guarantee that it will work, or that it won't even make things worse.
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Bulging capacitors on motherboard

Posted 08-18-2017 at 02:10 PM by the dsc
Updated 08-19-2017 at 01:34 PM by the dsc

A sequel to my topic, "onboard video card dying, or something else?", where Shadow_7 posted:

Originally Posted by Shadow_7 View Post
Sounds about the time of this little piece of corporate espionage.

I had a bad cap on an asus rt-n16. One of my old motherboards had a similarly spec'd cap that I replace it with. $80 saved.

If the bad caps are on the motherboard, a new video card wont save it.
Out of curiosity, I tried googling what seemed to me to be the brand of some the capacitors, and, while it may not be part of those involved in this episode, but a Japanese brand*, google's suggestion as I was typing, was kind of funny:

<capacitor brand> capacitors bad
"Bad". The owners of this manufacturer possibly aren't that happy with google.

It's kind of like going to google yourself, and google pops up "jerk" right beside your name.

It would be funny if Bing had that MS Word paperclip character doing the suggestions. "It seems you're trying to do a Bing search. Don't you mean <that thing you like> is just for idiots?"

From another forum, some other things may be useful, to myself, or someone else:

Originally Posted by larrymoencurly

Originally Posted by 403Forbidden
DO these caps look bad?
Yes. Any cap that's bulging (top or bottom) or leaking is bad and has to be replaced, and TK brand (Toshin Kogyo) is famous for failing. It's probably the only Japanese brand that's still low quality, so replace every one with a Panasonic (FM, FJ, or FL), Rubycon (MCZ, MBZ) Nichicon (HM, HN, or HZ), or Sanyo/Suncon WG, available from,,, and Any non-Japanese caps that aren't Samxon, like OST (the shorter green ones next to the brown TKs?), Teapo, Luxon, CapXon, or Ltec brands, at least 470uF in size, should be replaced, too, especially those in the voltage regulator circuits (next to CPU, PCI-E slot, or DIMM slots, usually near coils) and next to the north bridge chip. has tutorials about changing caps, both on the main page and in the forums. You need a soldering iron rated for at least 40-45 watts, even 50W, and using a lower power iron is actually more likely to cause damage because the solder will take much longer to melt or may never melt completely. Practice on junked circuit board having at least 4 layers of copper. If often helps to add 63%/37% or 60%/40% tin/lead solder to each joint before trying to remove the capacitor, especially if the circuit board is made with lead-free solder. To maximize heat transfer, keep the soldering tip well-tinned and very clean (frequently wipe with paper or cloth towel or fuzzy brass or copper hair, not a sponge). If you have a problem removing a bad capacitor, cut it off on the top side so each of its remaining leads can be removed individually.

Also, some incentive on the original thread:

Originally Posted by ondoho View Post
it really isn't that hard.
admittedly, not the really small parts like chip pins (i think you need an extra small soldering iron and a magnifying glass and a really steady hand for that), but i have replaced capacitors in consumer electronics with a totally inadequate soldering pistol more than once.
it doesn't look nice, but the basic rules are so simple that anyone with the vaguest grasp of how electricity flows can do it.
I'd still practice with some complete trash first, trying to attain some good "form" and then the necessary speed -- I've heard from someone who actually works with this kind of thing, that doing it too slow may damage the circuits. And he wasn't even referring to something as refined as computer motherboards, but rather accessories to electric showers.

Also for eventual reference:


* actually, one thing doesn't necessarily rules out the other. From the "instructables" comment section:

Originally Posted by AlanS14

Agreed-japanese capacitors are the best by a very long way- I doubt you'll ever see one with a domed top or leaking. The electrolyte is high quality where the taiwanese/chinese is poor and sometimes contaminated.

The good ones are: Chemicon (Marked with a Black empty rectangle, KZE, KZJ, or KZG on the body of the capacitor), Hitachi (hard to describe logo but a little like across between 3 concentric circles and the viewfinder of a rifle- sort of), Panasonic ( [M] for Matsushita ), Nichicon (marked NICHICON), Sanyo (marked SANYO), and Rubycon (marked Rubycon).

All are good- choose any and you'll be ok, but remember that there are different sizes and lifetimes available for them- try to match the original as far as possible.

Avoid Toshin Kogyo (TK marking) ones because although they are a Japanese company the capacitors are made in Taiwan.
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