In the file /home/username/.vnc/xstartup I uncommented the 2 lines:
unset SESSION_MANAGER
exec /etc/X11/xinit/xinitrc
then I got my normal desktop on the client.
Seperately, I've tried the browser way but am not presently java enabled. The
http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:580n does get me there, I just get that annoying x in a box.