Hardware hacker wanna be then you will need to know how to solder.
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I finally got the holes cleared & the jack installed, even the 40 watt iron barely melted the solder.
If I was desoldering copper pipe I would've just put flux on it, as the flux makes it easier to melt, but I wasn't sure if I should use that technique on a pc-board. All in all I think that the irons & bulb were too cheap.
I finally got the holes cleared & the jack installed, even the 40 watt iron barely melted the solder.
If I was desoldering copper pipe I would've just put flux on it, as the flux makes it easier to melt, but I wasn't sure if I should use that technique on a pc-board. All in all I think that the irons & bulb were too cheap.
With out flux you can't really do this.
And it does not matter you are taking out or putting in the parts.
To heat up a DC jack a 50W soldering iron should do the trick.
The flux wont hurt the PCB board at all. It used in electronic repair factories too.
To clean a PCB board just heat up the connector and take an old tooth brush and clean the solder off. (don't leave the solder on it, otherwise it will cause a short cut)
Then you can take out easily the old DC connector.
If you ever had a good old Abit motherboard then you should know how to change the creepy/cheap capacitors on it next to the CPU.
But it happens to be this is my original line, so I know how to do soldering.
I finally got the holes cleared & the jack installed, even the 40 watt iron barely melted the solder.
If I was desoldering copper pipe I would've just put flux on it, as the flux makes it easier to melt, but I wasn't sure if I should use that technique on a pc-board. All in all I think that the irons & bulb were too cheap.
Sometimes you will need to add solder to a joint/hole to properly clear it. To much heat and you can damage the through hole/PCB.
Copper pipe & PCB work are handled differently. You are not going to damage the pipe with too much heat. You can lift a pad or damage a hole with too much heat. Once you have used a temp controlled iron on job/task then you will wonder why you had not done it the easier way to begin with. Even the cheaper temp controlled irons are better than one that is not controlled. I do not like a solder bulb, I would use wick if A solder suck is not available.
Just remember that you will sometimes need to apply additional solder to get a good wet for solder removal.
I keep a couple of rolls of this solder around. It is good for everything from electronics to repairing stainless steel cracks on motorcycle fenders even.
I have no connection with this product vendor. Just letting you know of some neat solder rolls.
Looks like you can get it in the UK. I bought mine back in El Paso Tx. I bought their welding rod and wire welding spools also. It's good stuff, but not cheap though.
This solder is very strong and good for heavy solder connections requiring strength. Melt temp is not high either.
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then use a micro-snip to cut each lead then reheat the pin with the solderpult over the pin then active so the solder and pin are sucked into the cylinder.
Nah! you heat the snipped pin and remove each separately with needle nosed tweezers THEN you use the solderpult to suck the hole clear. I've done it a thousand times with 7400 and 5400 series ICs way back in the 60's/70's Ah... fond memories...
Nah! you heat the snipped pin and remove each separately with needle nosed tweezers THEN you use the solderpult to suck the hole clear. I've done it a thousand times with 7400 and 5400 series ICs way back in the 60's/70's Ah... fond memories...
Play Bonny!
Each to his/her own. I have been using my method for years. Less heat & clean hole. At least for me!
If tis were my thread I would mark it as solved.
I repaired my dc/jack got my ac/adapter now it's charging like it's supposed to.
Thanks for all of your help.
GOT MY ACER BACK ONLINE!!
Glad to hear that the thread/information has helped to solve your issue(s). I am sure there are other members who have contributions or techniques that will expand on this subject thus helping.
Most users do not realize that to solder a joint and component is to provide the best possible electrical connection to allow good flow of the electrons. There are some mechanical bonds but electrical bond is the primary goal to provide a good electrical connection. Over time, depending on environmental conditions the bond can be broken by vibration or mechanical movement of the component(s) thus causing the circuit to malfunction due to the break in electrical bond.
Soldering is a artisan skill and improvement over time by repetition or practice. Once you learn to solder then the more you do solder the better you get.
“A tool is but the extension of a man's hand and a machine is but a complex tool. He that invents a machine augments the power of man and the well being of mankind.” - Henry Ward Beecher
“Man is a tool-using animal.”- Carlyle
“One machine can do the work of fifty ordinary men. No machine can do the work of one extraordinary man.”- Elbert Hubbard
“Men have become the tools of their tools”- Thoreau, Walden
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use a micro-snip to cut each lead then reheat the pin with the solderpult over the pin then active so the solder and pin are sucked into the cylinder.
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Each to his/her own. I have been using my method for years. Less heat & clean hole. At least for me!
I was taught that you shouldn't apply heat for more than a second or you could damage the device (That's a semiconductor device; Transistor, diode, IC...)Works for me.
Then again, my instructor said you should be able to heat up your soldering iron, unplug it, run 100 yards in the pouring rain to an aircraft on the tarmack and make a perfect joint to repair its inertial navigation system (Pre GPS navigation using Gyros!)
I was taught that you shouldn't apply heat for more than a second or you could damage the device (That's a semiconductor device; Transistor, diode, IC...)Works for me.
Then again, my instructor said you should be able to heat up your soldering iron, unplug it, run 100 yards in the pouring rain to an aircraft on the tarmack and make a perfect joint to repair its inertial navigation system (Pre GPS navigation using Gyros!)
Maybe he was exagerating just a tiny bit...
Play Bonny!
I agree that one should be careful when soldering a new device in place. I use heat sink devices to protect the device while soldering.
I was taught that you shouldn't apply heat for more than a second or you could damage the device (That's a semiconductor device; Transistor, diode, IC...)Works for me.
Then again, my instructor said you should be able to heat up your soldering iron, unplug it, run 100 yards in the pouring rain to an aircraft on the tarmack and make a perfect joint to repair its inertial navigation system (Pre GPS navigation using Gyros!)
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@buccaneere
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You're not supposed to run with soldering iron.
I was told this in 1969! Before the invention of Health and Safety laws! I could also make perfect solder joints using resin multicore solder before they black listed it as well! It's a wonder anything gets done these days!
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