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The difference of recordable optical disc speed is the amount of errors. The errors is caused by the wobbling of the disc. If the wobbling is a lot, so will be the errors. At high speed, the disc will be wobbling a lot compared to at slow speed. If you do not want errors, write at a slow speed.
Does the media actually rotate faster (2x, 4x, ... 64x) or is rotation some fixed rate and only the data streaming rate changes?
Quote:
The auto will pick any speed the drive is capable of and what ever the dye material is used for the recordable optical disc. The drive can read the quality of the dye and make changes.
Does auto read the media during operation start-up, make its
decisions, then stick with that decision through the entire burn?
Alternatively, it could make adjustments on-the-fly based on whatever is happening during the last interval.
While burning the speed actually varies, at least from what I've seen, but it does try to use the speed that you gave it. It also depends on the quality of the media, if the disk was made cheaply it may never burn properly or only at very low speed.
Does the media actually rotate faster (2x, 4x, ... 64x) or is rotation some fixed rate and only the data streaming rate changes?
If you have any common sense, it will tell you that higher speed ratings requires high RPM. To complicate the issue, the drive uses vectors depending where the sensor is located. The pits for optical discs have different spacing for the inner and outer edges of the disc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaintDanBert
Does auto read the media during operation start-up, make its
decisions, then stick with that decision through the entire burn?
Alternatively, it could make adjustments on-the-fly based on whatever is happening during the last interval.
Like the question above. You are making an idiot out of your self by asking the same question, but in a different way. I said the drive reads the quality of the dye being used and adjusts the speed. It looks up the dye quality in its database.
I recommend look up the information on wikipedia or a similar site. Its information accuracy is high enough to give you what questions you have. I recommend read and think.
BTW, I could feed you crap and you will never know that it is bad.
I've tossed out Matshita disk drives before. I have a snitch on TEAC.
K3b is my favorite toaster software.
hdparms, are they up to spec? Is your HDD latency causing touble.
:-) Peter
1. I'd love to toss the Matshita drive, but need a replacement that fits the thin-slice drive bay. Suggestions?
2. I, too, prefer K3b end-user experience.
3. I have no idea how to check, alter, test, and most important avoid screwing up my HDD settings. I'm using whatever is
in place following my out-of-box install of Ubuntu Jaunty.
Suggestions?
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