OS doesn't see my pandaboard es when I plug it in.
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OS doesn't see my pandaboard es when I plug it in.
I'm trying to install fastboot on this pandaboard-es device I recently bought. (http://pandaboard.org/node/223/#PBESSetUp)
I'm starting to get into android platform development and need a device that is hackable.
In order to install fastboot I need to plug the pandaboard into my computer via usb however the kernel seem frightened by it, because I'm seeing the message below flooding dmesg:
Code:
[2329629.750830] usb 3-2: New USB device found, idVendor=0451, idProduct=d010
[2329629.750832] usb 3-2: New USB device strings: Mfr=33, Product=37, SerialNumber=0
[2329629.750833] usb 3-2: Product: OMAP4440
[2329629.750835] usb 3-2: Manufacturer: Texas Instruments
[2329632.749732] usb 3-2: USB disconnect, device number 35
[2329633.522352] usb 3-2: new high-speed USB device number 36 using xhci_hcd
[2329633.535280] usb 3-2: unable to get BOS descriptor
I'm not sure what "unable to get BOS descriptor means"
OS and Kernel:
Code:
$ uname -rma
Linux raoulduke 3.9.6-200.fc18.x86_64 #1 SMP Thu Jun 13 18:56:55 UTC 2013 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
Is there any pandaboard dev out there that can shed some light on this.
4. Run lsusb and make note of the device id (in my case for the MK808 it is 2207:300a)
5. Next open up rkflashtool.c from the supplied archive and add a conditional if statement (Third if) for your device as follows (Note: place your device ID that you identified with lsusb):
How do you like your PandaBoard? If I get into ARM programming again (now that the scars on my head have healed), I will probably go with the BeagleBone Black. It seems to have a bigger userbase, and chunking down $45 bucks on yet another-impossible-to-program ARM board is less painful.
rootboy, thanks for the help. The link was very useful.
What is confusing me is the kernel (?) is constantly discovering or finding this new device over and over again.
My dmesg is flooded with this message:
[2329629.750830] usb 3-2: New USB device found, idVendor=0451, idProduct=d010
[2329629.750832] usb 3-2: New USB device strings: Mfr=33, Product=37, SerialNumber=0
[2329629.750833] usb 3-2: Product: OMAP4440
[2329629.750835] usb 3-2: Manufacturer: Texas Instruments
[2329632.749732] usb 3-2: USB disconnect, device number 35
[2329633.522352] usb 3-2: new high-speed USB device number 36 using xhci_hcd
[2329633.535280] usb 3-2: unable to get BOS descriptor
The device number is constantly changing, (every 2 seconds)
Also the file in /dev/bus/usb/001/<device> is disappearing and then reappearing with a new number also.
To me this seem very strange. Should it only show this message once. I'm assuming this is the root cause of why I'm having trouble installing fastboot. Since usbboot can't reliably detect the device since its appearing and disappearing so quickly. Maybe i'm wrong. I'm hoping its not a bad board.
Thanks,
Last edited by djgerbavore; 08-08-2013 at 09:44 AM.
If it's coming on and then dropping out, check your 5 volts at the PandaBoard. This sounds like it might be a voltage problem (alternatively, switch to a powered USB hub to power/communicate with your PandaBoard). I see in your listing where it says that bMaxPower is set to 100ma. That's probably not going to be enough.
I got a usb powered hub and plugged the pandaboard into it and now i'm seeing this in dmesg:
Code:
[ 339.339348] usb 3-2: new full-speed USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd
[ 339.369180] usb 3-2: New USB device found, idVendor=0451, idProduct=1446
[ 339.369185] usb 3-2: New USB device strings: Mfr=0, Product=0, SerialNumber=0
[ 339.370010] usb 3-2: ep 0x81 - rounding interval to 1024 microframes, ep desc says 2040 microframes
[ 339.372185] hub 3-2:1.0: USB hub found
[ 339.376117] hub 3-2:1.0: 4 ports detected
[ 355.619513] usb 3-2: USB disconnect, device number 2
Its still doing the same appearing disappearing act. I'm going to install debug kernel and see if ftrace can shed any light on this. But I'm starting to think this may be a bad board (?)
Ah silly me, you don't get power for the board through the USB port on one of these beasts. Clip on to your +5 VDC and ground (preferably with a scope) and see if your supply is dropping out on you while running. And obviously, I would try it out on Windows first before shipping it back.
And prior to hooking up your 5 VDC supply, be sure that it is putting out no more than 5 VDC, it seems that the PandaBoard is sensitive to overvoltage.
P.S., Showed off my Mega2560 at work today, might have another convert to the embedded world.
And here is a link to adding USB ports to your board (I would populate the entire header rather than just the pins needed as shown on the web page though).
It looks like the Panda wants to talk through the serial port, and that the two provided USB ports are intended for your mouse and keyboard.
Tin Can Tools makes the "Flyswatter" which is a JTAG debugger for the Panda and the Beagle. If I get a BBB, I will definitely get one of these as well. You will want the adapter for the Panda as well. It will set you back ~$75
I did watch that getting-started video. I'm not using the two usb host ports. I'm using the USB Mini port J-18 (the one next to serial port). I'm using this PDF as reference: http://www.mouser.com/ds/0/PandaBoar...REV0_1-643.pdf (Page 16 to be exact)
I'm still might order USB ports and hook them up to the J6 expansion header on the PandaBoard. Its only 5 dollars.
The Flyswatter and Bus Pirate seem like very cool tools to have as an inspiring embedded developer. I may have to buy these items.
Thanks again for you help. There still maybe hope for me!
Last edited by djgerbavore; 08-15-2013 at 10:56 AM.
The nice thing about male pins is then you can plug one of those 40 pin female drive cables that we all have laying about in to run the connections out from your board. If your header isn't 40 wide, then don't be shy about cutting it down to size (just do a neat job and it will be fine).
Cut your new header to length and test fit it first since once you get started with the soldering iron, there is no turning back (solder a pin from each corner in first to make sure that the header is mounted flush with the board.
I'm assuming that the holes that you will be mounting the header to are through-plated (one would expect this). If not, then you will have to "wick" the solder through the board to the other side. Something that I don't like to do.
The original Xbox was like this (not through-plated), and I ended up not getting solder through on a few of the pins (I was putting a mod chip in mine). But this is the exception rather than the rule.
What I did to fix this was to take the header back out (it was a 8 pin header IIRC, and was no problem to get in and out) and mount it in upside down with just enough of the pins sticking through the board to make a good connection. I then soldered the header in on both sides, which fixed my electrical connection problem, and then gently worked the plastic frame of the pins down to where it was flush to the board. You only have to worry about this sort of thing if the board is not through-plated. Which I would be surprised if yours wasn't.
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