I think Gnome 3 in fall back mode is not quite themeable (or at least, not all themes for Gnome 3 work as expected in fall back mode, in my experience), but you could download some themes from gnome-look.org and test them until you get the look you like.
In case this helps, the closest I got to a look like the one you describe (black fonts on white panels), was the Adwaita Cupertino theme (you can see it in the attached image). There are many others that may suit your tastes better.
About the Shell theme option, it's grayed out because the shell doesn't work in fall back mode.
Cheers.
Last edited by Hungry ghost; 07-31-2014 at 03:53 PM.
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