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I use a variation on this (I just set the key mapping directly with 'xmodmap -e "keycode 108 = Multi_key"'; no .Xmodmap file) with SLiM and Xfce and it works pərfectly.
SLiM does use .xinitrc, though, so I'm not sure if this would work with gdm, kdm, xdm, etc., either.
the workspace switcher isn't really obvoius, and for some reason you have to double-click to select a desktop.
That's because that's how the Compiz "Expo" plugin works (the Unity interface is built on Compiz). It's nothing Unity-specific at all.
TBH, Unity doesn't bother me too much. Granted, I don't really use Ubuntu on a regular basis (I just threw Natty in a VM for the hell of it to see what Unity was like ). The only thing that really bothers me is that it's a bit less-than-obvious to get to applications that aren't already in the main "sidebar" (as you mentioned in your third point).
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